| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Rojam |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 10:30:30 AM
I'm replacing my old "flip-flop" ice chest seat with a new leaning post. I don't know what type of hardware it has (picking it up today from Cabella's) for installation (screws vs. bolts). Will screws work well, if that's what it comes with, or should I use bolts with large washers underneath? One person suggested putting metal plates underneath the deck and bolting them along with the "feet" of the post.
Is all this necessary? To do that I would need to install an additional access hatch. Going with screws would be the quickest and easiest, but I want it to be secure and stable. All suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ron |
| 12 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Rojam |
Posted - 04/13/2010 : 4:04:50 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Hooked
Rojam,
I was considering purchasing a new flip/flop back rest that I lost during Katrina. If yours would fit my setup and you want to sell off your old one let me know, may work out for both of us. Mine straddled a 94 quart igloo.
An offer for the entire seat is pending, but will get back to you if it falls through. |
| Hooked |
Posted - 04/13/2010 : 2:02:53 PM
Rojam,
I was considering purchasing a new flip/flop back rest that I lost during Katrina. If yours would fit my setup and you want to sell off your old one let me know, may work out for both of us. Mine straddled a 94 quart igloo.
"God bless our troops...especially the snipers" |
| Rojam |
Posted - 04/13/2010 : 08:52:12 AM
OK, thanks again. First step is to determine what is underneath where I have to drill and how much space is availeable. Then if space allows, I will use SS toggles. If there is not enough space underneath, I believe I will go with the SS screws provided, using the proper silicone. The leaning post has four legs, with the bases measuring 4 1/2'' x 3", so there will be 16 screws used in the installation. If I didn't have to install a new access hatch, I would go with the SS bolts, nuts and washers.
With all the good advice I've been given, I believe I'm making the right choices. I won't be doing the install for a few days, so if anyone has any more to add, please do. I will be checking back. When finished, I will follow up.
Thanks for all the input,
Ron |
| swamppro |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 8:46:00 PM
Where is your fuel tank beneath the floor? Becareful drilling!!! Some boats have aluminum plates glassed in the floor where leaning posts go and you can thread the hole for a stainless bolt. Whatever penetrations you make in the floor use 3m 4000 silicone. 4000 is the only one that will not yellow from the sun |
| Blazer |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 8:33:41 PM
Actually... if the wooden deck is solid, and the screws are sealed well to prevent water intrusion into the wood, they should work fine and last a long time. It's just that the other methods are preferred. |
| Rojam |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 7:56:37 PM
Thanks to all who responded. I just finished assembling the leaning post. It came with 1 1/4" SS screws for installation. I don't know the thickness (#4, #6 or whatever) but they are fairly thick.
However, I will probably go with the SS toggles first, if space underneath allows. Plan B would be SS bolts, nuts and washers, but I would have to drill another access hatch to do that. Does anybody fell that the screws would eventually breakout under normal use?
Thanks again,
Ron |
| Blazer |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 3:45:34 PM
Three choices...
1) Ideally, you have access through an inspection plate to the underside of the deck where the new seat needs to be attached. This is unlikely, but if so, use stainless bolts with flat washers and locking nuts under the deck.
2) Next best option is what John said. drill holes and install stainless toggle bolts. These are very similar to those you would use in a home for anchoring something heavy to a hollow sheet rock wall. they go through the hole you drill, then open on the other side and will grip the deck from underneath. They come with plastic handles that hold it in place while you insert a bolt, then the plastic handle is cut off.
3) Finally, just use stainless screws the correct length.
Which ever you use, be sure to check for clearance under the deck first. If necessary, drill a very small hole where the first bolt would go, AND JUST deep enough to punch through the deck. Then insert something small and determine if there is anything in your way like a stringer or FUEL TANK!
On most of the "2-piece" boats today, these seats are through bolted with heavy aluminum backing plates before the liner is mated to the hull. Good luck... |
| JOHN C |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 2:52:24 PM
Use SS toggle-bolt anchors and bolts for fiberglass thickness up to 2.5"! Depending on the thickness of your flooring...MAY need to reinforce with resin coated wood. BE SURE TO SEAL ALL HOLES, SCREWS, BOLT HOLES WITH GOOD GRADE OF SILICON SEALANT. John Castelluccio, Jr.
New SUV-'06 Yukon, new 56 yoa house, new boat-'06 Avenger, Semi-retired-'07, soon to get "new-wife"-'10 and THEN in debt for the rest of my life-Now&4-ever!!! |
| ed mcintyre |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 12:23:42 PM
my seat pedastal bases are screwed through an .100 aluminum deck reinforced by 3/4 inch plywood. there is no other reinforcement, and i have not had any problems with my rig. but then again i don't sit in the seats when the engine is running.
remember we did not inherit these resources from our parents, we are merely borrowing them from our children |
| Rojam |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 11:29:57 AM
quote:
Originally posted by ed mcintyre
ron, is this a fiberglass boat?
It's a 1997 Key Largo with 3/4' marine plywood covered in fiberglass.
WhoDatTiger, I hear what you're say, I'm just hoping to save time and trouble without sacrificing strength. But will do what's necessary to do the job right. |
| ed mcintyre |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 10:48:59 AM
ron, is this a fiberglass boat?
remember we did not inherit these resources from our parents, we are merely borrowing them from our children |
| WhoDatTiger |
Posted - 04/12/2010 : 10:46:35 AM
I would think going with bolts and locking washers would be the best way to do it. There is so much vibration in boats, I would think your going to loose the screws. I like the metal plate idea too, that would make the system ridgid from the below the deck to above. |
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